A folk tradition passed down from the Celts has seen something of a resurgence in London.

On a mild Saturday afternoon, revellers gathered to sing to the health of the orchard trees, beating pots and pouring cider around their base before sticking toasted bread on the branches.

“Apples are a really important crop in this country, they were the first crop we used to make alcohol with. Anything around alcohol tends to have a lot of mythology”, says Sam, an education officer with the trust.

Sam, an education officer with the London Wildlife Trust was part of the team managing the event. Credit: Beau Thomas

The word Wassail comes from the Anglo Saxon ‘wes hal’ meaning ‘good hail’. Once part of a month of festivals around the new year, neighbours would join each other for a glass of cider and sing songs that prefigure Christian carols.

Diana Wallace from the London Wildlife Trust says Wassails show new interest in rediscovering our ancient past. “There seems to be such enthusiasm for these old traditions. It seems to have brought out older people as well as a lot of younger people.”

Part of the Wassailing tradition involves hanging bread to orchard trees. Credit: Beau Thomas

In Dulwich, the Wassail, organised by the London Wildlife Trust, took on a new eco-centric angle, highlighting the role these pagan traditions take in connecting us to nature. “We got separated from the land in this country very early due to being the first country that went through the industrial revolution” Sam says.

“It’s lovely to be part of something in London with such a long tradition going back to pagan, pre-Christian times”.

Some wassailers had come dressed for the part, adorned with vines and decorative leaves in their hair; “It’s lovely to be part of something in London with such a long tradition going back to pagan, pre-Christian times. It’s not often you get the chance to do that in what can often feel like a grey concrete wasteland”, one said.

The traditional Wassail drink, made with citrus and cinnamon. Credit: Beau Thomas

Often practiced in the cider producing regions of England, the Wassail has gradually found its way to London, where according to the Trust it is seeing a small revival. Wassail events in Hackney and on Twelfth Night at the Southbank have drawn the attention of national media.

“I really like the Wassailing song, it’s a staple of my family Christmas”.

Tom, from Somerset, had brought his own lyrics, “I last went to a Wassail when I was eleven years old. I really like the Wassailing song, it’s a staple of my family Christmas”.

But for some, the Wassail can seem like a ready excuse to drink in a muddy field. Ewan, part of a group of younger revellers, brought large bottles of cider which he drank with more enthusiasm than when he spat it out onto the apple trees.