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Christmas pudding sales are expected to be taken over by panettone in some large shops

A family Christmas pudding company which sells at a London market believes rising numbers of young customers is responsible for making 2023 a record year.

McLaren’s Christmas Puddings have produced 19 tonnes of the dessert this year – higher than ever and 10% more than in 2022.

Duncan McLaren, who runs the company with his mother Sandra, doesn’t recognise media reports that people are buying fewer Christmas puddings, opting for panettone instead.

He’s noticed a rise in younger customers, who he says are enjoying contributing to the continuation of tradition.

Selfridges says it expects to sell three times as many panettone as Christmas puddings this year.

The owner of an Italian delicatessen in Lewisham says panettone has become more popular in recent years, but doesn’t think it will take over Christmas puddings entirely.

Duncan McLaren stands holding a packaged Christmas pudding in his stall at Borough Market
McLaren’s has been making Christmas puddings since 2004. CREDIT: WILLIAM KING/CITY NEWS

Occupying a stall at Borough Market, Duncan chats to customers each year about his ingredients, production process and the traditions associated with Christmas puddings.

Made with butter rather than suet (saturated animal fat) and soaked in cognac and Guinness, Duncan says his is a lighter, less claggy product than those available in supermarkets and less likely to be met with responses of “I hate Christmas puddings”.

It’s more expensive, but he believes customers get what they pay for.

With around 60-70% of his customers tourists, Duncan says using butter rather than suet means the desserts can be taken on flights around the world – and if there are any issues at customs, people should get border officers to ring him!

He also feels he’s contributing to the continuation of tradition – telling people about the pudding’s Georgian origins, and making the link to figgy pudding referenced in We Wish You A Merry Christmas.

Christmas puddings in boxes with labels stacked on stall at market
McLaren’s puddings are made to a family recipe. CREDIT: WILLIAM KING/CITY NEWS

Duncan sees no signs of trade slowing down, and says people have been suggesting panettone will take over for years.

He thinks there’s room for both Christmas puddings and panettone in people’s cupboards: “it’s not a question of competition … they complement each other”.

Antonio Nigro, who runs an Italian delicatessen in Lewisham, says he’s noticed panettone getting more popular in recent years.

Antonio Nigro smiles holding a panettone and gestures to more
Antonio’s delicatessen has been operating for 40 years. CREDIT: WILLIAM KING/CITY NEWS

The Italian cake is light and fluffy, which Antonio says can make it more enjoyable than heavy dishes after a large meal.

He says children tend to enjoy a plainer version whilst adults opt for the fruity varieties.

He also thinks it appeals to people who can’t or choose not to drink alcohol more than the English Christmas pudding.

But, Antonio says as Christmas pudding is an English staple, it’s unlikely to be replaced completely by panettone.